Hi again folks ! hope you are sheltering in place sensibly and family and friends are all safe. Barbara and I are still in Atlanta hoping there might be an opportunity to head back to Italy in the next month or so, but like may of you, we're just taking it a day or two at a time.
We're in a new airbnb down in Inman Park - a location that, at any other time, would be killer for eating/drinking and springtime walks in a super-charming neighborhood.
There are so many quarantine stories more interesting than ours, but a few lights moments might be worth sharing:
Top: Same street, signs 200 yards apart?
Bottom left: Found gelato, but can't eat it!
Bottom right: What happens when you try to cut your own hair.
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How about another moment of "Suspension of Disbelief?" Today let's pretend that all is well in Italy (and everywhere) and you're looking for a fun place to visit. How about Genova (Genoa)? Shortly after we arrived in Italy, my Genovese colleague Pamela insisted that we visit her beloved hometown as soon as possible! So in October, we hitched a ride with her and headed south...it's only 2-ish hours to the coast!
Genova, Italy's 6th largest city, is the capital of the Liguria region, nestled strategically along the coast. For millenia it has served as a key port for trade all around the Mediterranean, and for centuries it parlayed its importance as a trading hub into immense wealth. You may know it as the birthplace of explorer/colonizer/exploiter Christopher Columbus, and more importantly the birthplace of pesto sauce!
When you take your first look at Genoa, you see that it is exactly as advertised - a seafaring town with working shipyards, cruise ship berths, and tourists lured to this gateway to the Italian Riviera. It reminds me of New Orleans, another significant port city with a long and proud history - a gritty place (that could use a power-washing in some spots), a place with narrow streets where you almost expect an old pirate to jump out and "waylay" you.
But once you get past the first impression of grittiness, you see the hidden gem that is Genoa. It is clearly invested a lot in cleaning itself up and attracting visitors, and we took advantage during our weekend getaway! Here are some highlights of our 36 hours in Genova:
Welcome to the Mediterranean: Genoa is indeed a gateway to Liguria and the Italian Riviera. To the west are dozens of lovely small towns dotting the coast (which we explored later that month with my brother Nick). To the east, Portofino, Levanto, and Cinque Terre.
Views of Genova: (l) from the surrounding hills, (r) morning along the waterfront
Scooters everywhere: Pamela warned us about the scooters...Italians are known for loving their scooters, but Genoa takes it to the next level. Unlike the north of Italy, it rarely is too cold to ride, so the scooter is the ONLY form of transport for a lot of Genovese!
Amore on a scooter (notice the palm trees); on foot with helmet, dedicated scooter parking
A Walkable City: We logged a lot of miles just strolling around this picturesque town. For us, it was really three towns - the ancient, cobbled warrens around Via Garibaldi, the waterfront area, and the modern/chic streets around Piazza de Ferrari. Like so many Italian cities, you can spot the more recent 19th century part of town by the portico-covered arcades, perfect for keeping out rain, snow, or sun as needed!
Top: Arcades near Piazza de Ferrari, help yourself to a sample of Genoa's signature scent, Bottom: La Lanterna di Genova, La Cattedrale di San Lorenzo,
Side trip to Nervi: We heard the beautiful stretch of beach in Genoa was, actually, just outside Genoa (which is the case for most old port towns, where commerce superseded "the view" a long time ago).
View along Nervi's passeggiata, old door (with handle in the middle), Nervi's port
A 20-minute train ride along the beautiful coast deposited us in Nervi, which features the wonderful 2km "passeggiata Anita Garibaldi" along the sea. Anita was Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi's Brazilian wife. Fun fact: We learned the hard way that most of the bars/cafés in the area only accept cash.
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Thanks again for reading, folks - hoping you are hanging in there, staying safe and healthy. Here's to seeing each other in person one of these days!!
Ci vediamo!