Hi again folks! It's been a while - hoping all of you are reasonably safe back in the USA. Since the last time I checked in, school has ended here, and the glorious weeks of summer break have begun (there's work to do getting ready for next year, but very manageable).
We're sorry to see that things seem to have taken quite a turn in the U.S. the last couple of weeks. I won't get political, but as someone who (fortunately) skated around the worst of it in Italy in March and April, and then skated around the worst of it in the U.S. in May and June, I can say assuredly that wearing a mask and social distancing works. It definitely got Italy back on its feet. From all accounts, it was a very difficult 2.5 months here, but the depth of the crisis got everyone on board to cooperate and turn this around. I hope it does not take the same kind of trauma in the US, although it seems like it's headed that way.
If we can learn anything from the Italian experience, it's that Masks and Distance work!
So how is it here? I must say it's very pleasant and only slightly inconvenient to live here now. The vast majority of Italians have adopted smart practices, and as a result almost all businesses are open and functioning well. Some examples:
Coffee Bars: Perhaps the most important component of daily life! Coffee bars have adopted good practices - no more than x people inside at a time, not more than 2 people at a table (best to get a reservation for aperitivo), paper cups in some cases, and most importantly cheerful but careful service!
At the Gym: Our "palestra" has reopened, but many members are wary of going back (who isn't looking for a good reason to NOT go to the gym?). Credit to the gym owners: they are taking lots of measures to be safe: (a) I must sign in every time I go, for contact tracing purposes if something happens; (b) movement around the building is indicated by tape on the floor, to minimize people bumping into each other in narrow spaces; (c) the rules for wiping down equipment after each use are pretty well enforced!
But even with all that, there's been pretty low turnout so far. The only good news - I don't have to wait for the one good stair climber they have - it's all mine! Obviously that's not good news for the gym financially; they are announcing discounts on annual fees; not a good sign for them longer term.
Out and About: The markets are back open and most restaurants seem at or close to regular levels of activity. Hand sanitizing stations are everywhere, and people have adjusted to this new normal.
Our cheese guy at the market; hotels wrap your remote in plastic; sanitizing station
But hey you came to this blog for fun travel stories right? Fear not, we have those! Our first trip "out" after the quarantine ended was to finally get our paddle-boards out of the moving boxes and inflate those bad boys. We had heard there are several beautiful lakes within an hour-or-so drive of Chieri - and indeed we went to two of them in successive weeks in June.
Lago di Viverone is an easy drive Northeast, just this side of the more famous Lago Maggiore. It hosts tons of families for swimming and lakeside relaxation; also some boating (which kind of ruins the calmness of paddle-boarding, so we might not go back to that particular lake).
Lago di Sirio is a smaller and more peaceful lake, just a bit further than Viverone. No motor boats! It is near a picturesque little town called Ivrea that we will definitely visit again.
Lago di Viverone Lago di Siri
The lakes of Northern Italy are amazing for their beauty and accessibility. Of course you have heard of the big three (Maggiore, Como, and Garda), but there are so many other smaller ones that are worth a trip. Most of the lakes are fed by the nearby Alps, while a few are fed by underground springs...in either case the water is pretty cold! So engage your core, people; stay on the board :)
A few people said it's a relatively recent phenomenon for folks to be out on the water in kayaks (not uncommon) or paddle-boards (infrequent, we got a lot of stares, although we hear paddle-boarding is on the rise here). Every lake of course has the more traditional "pedalo" pedal boats to rent, but do't get me started - to me they are like tandem bikes - an evil invention concocted by divorce lawyers! No thanks, I'll manage my watercraft solo!
Top: BB and MP on their boards; Bottom: Views from Lake Sirio (see Castello Montalto Dora)
One thing that's very different about a day at the lake here in Italy - whereas in the U.S., the plan might be to load up the kids, pack up your coolers with food and beverage, hitch up the trailer with the jet skis, and build a small encampment out of pop-up canopies for the barbecue...here things are less ambitious and just easier, involving less stuff.
Barbara and I are the odd ones with our paddle-boards and other accoutrement; the majority of visitors to the lake will drive their small-ish car up here and find one of many family-owned, private facilities, where they pay a fee (maybe 25-30 euro) to park and have all-day access to the water, bathrooms, showers, changing cabins, and a nice restaurant/bar. Very easy!
Spending time at the lake in Italy: Less "Ozark"; more "The Notebook"
As always, stay safe...fingers crossed some of you can visit Italy later this year... in the meantime, stay tuned for more travel stories!